Rashtradhipatis of Pravarasenapuram: The Ashta Bhairavas of Kashmir

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Kashmir, in it’s separate identity from the Gandhara mahajanapada was controlled from it’s conventional capital of Puranadisthan (Pandrethan), currently situated to the south of present day Srinagar. Kalhana, mentions in his 12th century epic Rajatarangini, that the 5th ruler of the Gonanditya dynasty sought to construct a new capital for the kingdom. Mentioned as “Sri Pravarsena” in many Indian texts, Pravarsena II was a probable Huna king, who ruled the kingdom somewhere around the middle of 2nd Century AD. He founded a new capital in the land tracts between the Lake “Mahasarit” (Dal Lake) and river Vitasta. Named Pravarapura or Pravarasenapuram, the city was planned in an exceptional manner. On the northern bank of the Mahasarit, he developed an alluring garden and named it as Shalimar. “Shalimar” is a Samskrit term meaning “abode of love”. It was this place, which was resurrected by Mughal Emperor Jahangir in accordance with Islamic architecture and is still known as Shalimar Garden. Pravarasenapuram became the ultimate seat of power of Kashmir and still continues to be so by the name of Srinagar.

Srinagar’s etymology is also disputed. The basic assumption one can make by the first glance of it’s present name can be “City of Wealth, Luck or Lakshmi”. But the more evident source is “City of Sun”. Sun (Surya in Samskrit) is called “Siryi” or “Siri” in Kashmiri.

No doubt Srinagar can be a corrupted form of Samskrit term “Surya Nagar”, which can be translated into Kashmiri as “Siri Nagar”. While the common pronunciationI is “Shrinagar”, Kashmiris still call it as Siri Nagar, unknowingly refering to it’s original name. 

While planning the capital, Pravarsena II divided the entire city into 8 different sectors. A staunch follower of Shiva in addition to Kashmir being the seat of Tantric Shaivism in the subcontinent that time, he assigned a Bhairava as the protector of each sector. Bhairava is an amalgamation of 2 words, “Bhaya”, meaning fear and “Ravan”, meaning cry. Just like Kaal Bhairav, who is considered as the “Nagar Kotwal” of Kashi, these 8 bhairavas were the “Rashtradhipatis”(protectors) of Pravarasenapuram/Srinagar. 

Emperor Kanishka inaugrating Mahayana Buddhism at the 4th World Buddhist Council in Srinagar, 1st Century AD
Mahayana Buddhism went on to become the largest sect of Buddhism

The division was -

1. Vetalaraja Bhairava – Rainawari, Dal Lake areas.
2. Anandeshwara Bhairava – Sathu Barbar Shah, Amira Kadal, Ganpatyar.
3. Tushkaraja/ Turushkaraja Bhairava – Habbakkadal on left bank of Vitasta, Confluence of Doodh Ganga and Vitasta.
4. Bahukhatakeswara Bhairava – Safakadal, Chattabal
5. Purnaraja Bhairava – Ali Kadal, Some areas of Safakadal
6. Mangalaraja Bhairava – Zaina Kadal (Right bank), Fateh Kadal
7. Jayaksena Bhairava – Zaina Kadal (Left Bank)
8. Vishvaksena Bhairava – Beyond Zainakadal

These 8 Bhairavas are the main “Ashta Bhairavas” of Kashmir, considered to be the guardians of the capital city and the region. Also, these areas present an image of the original extent of the ancient city of Srinagar. Apart from these Bhairavas, many others were gradually assigned to other areas of the valley. For instance – Bhimaraja Bhairava of Prayagraj Shadipur, Nandakeshwar Bhairava of Sumbal and Bhuteshvara Bhairava of Tulmul. Kashmiri Pandits, who are pre dominantly Shaivites, still pray to their local Bhairava. All these Bhairavas have their own domestic abodes in 8 temples across the city in their
respective areas. The collective abode of these Bhairavas is considered to be at Sri Chakreshvara (Haari Parbat), which in turn is the abode of Sharika Bhagwati. During the final Naivedya pooza on Vohorvod (Kashmiri birthday ritual), Pandits take tahar (Turmeric Rice) in their right hand and offer their final reverences to their area’s “Iha-Rashtradhipatis”.

I come from the family of Ganjoos from the locality of Rainawari, one of the earliest settlements of the city. Our Kuladevi is Maharagya Bhagwati of Tulmul and we are the followers of Vetalaraja Bhairava. After some 30 years to our exodus, Vetalaraja Bhairava now stands unattended in his ruined temple, still guarding Rainawari. Praying and remembering our circumscribed Bhairava from hundreds of kilometres away might never sound logical, but is ethical. A practice to save the 5 millennium old culture, Kashmir’s culture, our heritage.